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Cichlid Water Conditions


Water conditions can be greatly improved by fully planting a tank, as nitrite ammonia, and nitrate are some of the nutrients that plants consume. This helps balance the beneficial bacteria levels, so if there will always be a buffer to make sure things do not get too out of control. A fully planted tank will also induce spawning as it will replicate their natural environment and also allow for hiding and spawning locations.

If you do decide to keep plants I would start with an easy to keep low light plant such as Water Sprite, which grow like a weed pretty much regardless of your setup (it will literally grow out of my tank if I don't prune it). A stock fluorescent light fixture left on 8-12 hours a day should be enough to grow it in most setups, we'll be doing a whole guide on starting a planted aquarium in the coming weeks. Nonetheless, I suggest keeping it minimal and focus on Cichlid breeding foremost.

African Cichlids enjoy alkaline water conditions, South American Cichlids can be found in exceptionally soft and acidic blackwaters, while American Cichlids usually inhabit water ranging from neutral to alkaline. If your water isn't well suited for African Cichlid breeding you can get African Cichlid pH buffer, which will stabilize the aquarium pH to 8.5 as well as condition the water with elements found in their natural habitat. This can help, but usually isn't greatly needed. However, for South American Cichlid breeding it is a bit more essential, especially for very delicate fish such as Discus.

Peat moss is good way to organically lower your pH without using any powders or chemicals. Any garden shop should have some rather cheap, simply wash and put some in mesh bag or panty-hose and place it where the filter pad sits so the waterpasses through. If you don't want to use peat moss, blackwater extract works just as well, it contains natural humic and tannic acids that creates an environment with water conditions similar to the Amazon River. It makes for better water chemistry, encourages spawning, aids the hatching process and tints the water a light brownish yellow color just like the Amazon River, which is pretty cool looking.

Regular water changes are critical to maintaining a good water chemistry for Cichlid breeding. How often and how much water to change is quite debatable. For my fully planted tank I do 33% (1/3) water changes every two to three weeks; for a loosely or non-planted tank I would advise weekly water changes. Ultimately this differs for Cichlid breeding according to the species and each breeder has a different philosophy on water changes, so you can experiment with what works for both you and your fish. I am a huge advocate of the Python water siphon, years ago I had to lug around heavy buckets of water to change the water in my aquariums but this makes it incredibly easy and saves a lot of time as well, it is an amazing investment.

A heater to maintain consistent water temperature is essential for Cichlid breeding. I prefer Visi-Therm Deluxe heaters as you can set the desired temperature and forget about it. With older heaters it was trial and error until you got the correct setting, but that's no longer necessary. Quite amazing how aquarium equipment has evolved over the past decade.

For more information visit my Cichlid breeding guide.

I'm a fish breeder, you can visit my Cichlid breeding site.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gendo_Ikari

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Cichlid Breeding Diet


Cichlid breeding also requires quite the diverse diet, many primarily feed on algae and plants while others are primarily carnivorous and prey on smaller fish. With the latter it is important to choose their aquarium mates carefully, more so for Cichlid breeding as that could create quite the debacle. Only healthy fish will readily mate. Furthermore, many female Cichlids such as mouthbrooders do not eat during the incubation, which may in some cases last up to four weeks. Only a fish that is in good health will be able to endure such abstinence from food.

Many foods formulated specifically for Cichlids are available. I personally use Wardley's Cichlid Advanced Nutrition, it's higher quality than most common flake foods and seems to hold its own against some of the more expensive foods. Furthermore, it comes in pellet form, which is critical for me. I dislike flake foods for the most part, as they eventually deteriorate into dust and it also creates quite a bit of mess. I find the pellets to be much cleaner and cost effective, the fish also seem to respond to them more as it is easier to see and eat.

Fish should be conditioned before Cichlid breeding, which is to provide a variety of live, dry and frozen foods to get them in top condition for spawning. There is a wide variety of great live foods like tubifex worms, bloodworms, brine shrimp and beef heart. Fish love live foods and they are quite beneficial for them; however, try to feed these carefully to avoid an unbalanced diet. If you would rather not deal with live food, freeze-dried foods are entirely safe, cheap and easy. Feeding your Cichlids a rich varied diet is not only healthier but it will thrive and bring out much more vibrant colors.

For more information visit my Cichlid breeding guide.

I'm a fish breeder, you can visit my Cichlid breeding site.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gendo_Ikari

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Care For Betta Fish, What is the Proper Way?


When you care for betta fish you will be taking care of a brilliant pet that is clever and colorful and can make a great addition to your aquarium, or in an aquarium of their own. There are a few things that you should take into consideration when thinking about the care for betta fish and that includes making sure that they have the right sized tank (a five to ten gallon tank is adequate) making sure that you feed them a rich and varied diet and also knowing that you shouldn't ever over feed them. But what about cleaning the tank and maintaining the general care for betta fish?

Well, when considering the care for betta fish you should be sure to clean your betta's tank out at least once a week depending on the size of the tank, if you have a larger tank then once every ten to fourteen days should be fine. You should follow these easy steps to clean your fish tank:

Use a gentle net to catch your betta's and transfer him into a baggie full of water from the aquarium so that he is still in his own environment then you can proceed to clean the tank by cleaning up any buildups on the sizes including grime and scum. Then you should replace some of the water. When considering the care for betta fish you should remember that you shouldn't change all of the water in the tank at once because the shift in the environment can harm your betta. You should change around 25 to 50% of the water at a time and for the fresh water you add, you should make sure that it is around 78f and don't shift the water temperature drastically when it is time to reintroduce your fish to the tank. And always remember to add water conditioner to the water that you change because the chlorine in the tap water can harm and even kill fish.

You should also consider doing a 20 to 30% water change at least once every week to maintain a clean and healthy fish tank. You should always keep an eye out for anything that might be affecting the care for betta fish including constipation which can cause the betta to swim lopsided, and you should always keep an eye out for torn and ripped fins and fin rot.

If you need more information on the care for betta fish, then you can visit your local aquarium or pet centre which will have lots of tips on how to care for your betta fish to make sure that they live a long and happy life, and so you can get the most out of your pets

The author has created a review site that provides you with the most in-depth and complete analysis of the best care for betta fish guide called Caring for Betta Fish.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Hickmon

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Raising Your Koi Fry Correctly


When your koi couple have successfully spawned and fertilized their koi eggs, it is time to remove the koi parents from the spawning tank. This is to prevent them from eating their own eggs. Once this is done, you can expect the eggs to develop and hatch into koi fry quite soon.

The time it takes your koi fry to hatch from their eggs depends primarily on the temperature of the water. The colder it is, the longer it takes to hatch and vice versa. Generally, at a temperature of between 68 to 71 degrees Fahrenheit, the eggs should hatch in 3 to 4 days. The minimum temperature for koi eggs to hatch is about 63 degrees in which case it would take them 5 or 6 days to hatch. So keep your water at an optimum temperature and well aerated and you will see the eggs start to develop and eventually hatch.

Once the fries have hatched out of the eggs, you should remove the unfertilized eggs, leaving the koi fries by themselves in your spawning tank. Do not feed them for 3 to 4 days after hatching because their mouths have not developed yet so food within this time will only cause the water to become murky. It is important to keep the water well aerated with a pump because the koi fries' respiratory system has not fully developed so they need lots of oxygen.

After the third or fourth day, you can feed your koi fry some food. You have various options. You can feed them hard boiled eggs or better yet, get some food from the lake which wild koi fry would eat. For example, you can feed them with infusoria (a type of pond algae) or daphnia (a type of crustacean found in ponds). As the koi fries grow, you can feed them with brine shrimp and eventually koi pellets. But make sure the size of the pellets is not too large for the koi fries to eat. But do not feed the fries artificial food until they are at least 6 weeks old.

At around 4 weeks of age, it is time to cull the koi fries as you would likely have hundreds if not thousands of them. The ones to cull would be those with unwanted characteristics like deformities. And if you are trying to breed a certain color or variety of koi, you should cull those that do not display the colors or characteristics of the koi variety that you are trying to breed.

Once you have a number of koi fry that you are comfortable with, you can grow them to become wonderful additions to your koi collection.

Finding the best information about proper koi keeping and koi ponds can be overwhelming at times.

One of the best places we found online for the straight facts on koi keeping and where you can get a FREE 10-part mini course on 'How to Keep Koi Tips and Tricks' is KeepKoi Resources.

To find out more about how to grow koi fry, visit How to Look After Koi Fry.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christopher_H._Andrews

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Keep Your Koi Healthy - Minerals That Are Harmful to Koi Fish


Maintaining a clean and healthy environment for your koi is extremely important. Good water quality is essential in order for them to thrive. Most often, people tend to overlook the most basic and simplest requirement in caring for wild carps. Professional breeders invest lots of money on the installation of the most expensive and effective filtration system to ensure that their ponds will be free from bacteria, waste products and other forms of harmful substances. When water becomes contaminated it produces harmful minerals for koi fish. These minerals can be very fatal to their health and may even cause death.

Chlorine is mainly used as a form of treatment in most water facility. The water supply which is being used in homes and other establishments is often treated with it. It may not harm humans but it is very toxic to koi. In fact it is considered as the deadliest mineral and must always be eliminated or neutralized. So before adding water to your pond, make sure it is free of chlorine.

The quality of water is affected by various elements. The most common reason for the development of contaminants is improper feeding practices. You should be aware that overfeeding can increase the level of ammonia in the pond. Ammonia is a by-product primarily produced from excreted fish feces. Its presence especially in large amounts can be lethal to koi fish. Accumulated ammonia can predispose your fish to acquire bacterial infections and parasitic infestations.

Nitrites and nitrates are by-products of the nitrogen cycle which is a natural occurring life process within the pond. When present at increased levels it may pose health risks to your fish. Nitrite is produced by the bacteria called Nitrosomonas which is responsible for breaking down ammonia. Therefore consistent monitoring is advised to ensure it is within acceptable levels. As much as possible, its level reading should be kept to 0. Nitrates on the other hand are less harmful as compared to nitrites. It is the final product of the nitrogen cycle wherein nitrosomonas converts nitrite into nitrate. The presence of plants and algae can help maintain admissible nitrate levels.

Harmful minerals to koi fish can be decreased if not eliminated with the aid of a filtering system. Different types of filtration system such as biological and mechanical filter are used to eliminate debris and other forms of by-products which are produced within the pond. Regular monitoring of water is also encouraged to ensure that its parameters are within applicable levels. You should always check for an increase in pH, nitrite, nitrate and ammonia levels. High levels are often indicative of poor filtration and presence of waste products. Checking the water in a weekly basis is therefore advised.

Having good water quality is certainly the key to a successful koi pond. Clean and well filtered water which is free from bacteria, wastes and other harmful substance directly reflects a healthy pond.

Finally! Your questions answered, the Koi fish jargon demystified, the complex tasks made simple, quick, cheap and painless... How to Care For Koi Fish

Create an Oasis in Your Backyard with a Backyard Koi Pond and Water Garden.
Visit Koi Ponds - Pond Kits

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Miura_Michiyo

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Starting a Freshwater Fish Aquarium - Growing Plants


Starting a freshwater fish aquarium is great fun, extremely rewarding and completely exciting. How many aquarium enthusiasts are there? I don't know, but I do know it's lots and lots, and the number is growing all the time. When you start out why not think about growing your own aquarium plants instead of buying them. It's not as difficult as you may think.

Firslty, you must know exactly what you want, what is best for the fish you have chosen to keep and what size fish tank you are going to have. Always check out the baby plant before purchase for any tiny animal visitors which may cause harm to your fish and remember that most plants prefer to be totally submerged in water.

Due to their tiny size the plants may need to be anchored to start them off until they are established in the tank and of course they need their life force, light. Lots of folk use a "daylight flourescent" light which does the job just fine.

An important point here is to wait about one week before adding fish to the newly planted aquarium to allow the plants to establish themselves without fish biting on them or leaving waste on them. Always clean algae from your tank or let an algae eating fish like a shrimp or catfish do it for you.

If your plants become too large for the tank, simply prune them which takes minutes only.

Remember that when starting a freshwater fish aquarium plants are very important to the tank and to the fish as they provide oxygen and food. They also help maintain chemical balance whilst creating hiding places for your fish. They do also of course help to create a stunning visual centre piece for any person, enthusiast or not.

http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

John Eddie has for some time been a keen enthusiast in freshwater fish and their aquarium. He has gathered lots of information, much of which is not readily available at your local pet shop.

For more interesting and helpful information on freshwater fish and the aquarium please visit the above site at your leisure.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_N_Eddie

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Easily Setup Your First Freshwater Aquarium!


If you have been looking for some expert freshwater aquarium information for setting up a new aquarium, that too for the first time, your search ends here. In this article, you will learn how to set up your own first aquarium in easy to follow steps.

First of all, choose the right equipment. The time spent in choosing the right equipment will ensure your peace of mind in long term. Your choice will depend on the kind of fish that you will keep in it and the level of care that it requires. Any good shopkeeper can provide you with just the right freshwater aquarium information for making your final choice. Also, you can notice that tagged prices for various aquariums can be bargained easily, so do not let that opportunity go out of your hands.

You will want to setup the aquarium almost immediately after your purchase, but wait! Choose the right location first. Make sure that your aquarium is not placed in direct sunlight. Also, your aquarium is not just a place to keep your fish, it is also a wonderful add on to your room decor. Choose a place where it can be easily seen. Also, does the design of your aquariums fits in your room decor? Great!

Now when you have the equipment set up, add some plants. Hey, your fish will feel at home if she finds a lot of plants. There is probably no answer to which plants to use - artificial or living. It is totally your own personal choice. Although artificial plants are not eaten away by your fish and are more attractive in general, they do not absorb carbon-dioxide and prevent formation of algae. You can get some more freshwater aquarium information where you choose to buy your plants from for making your final choice.

Now you are ready to visit a pet-shop to buy your fish. Just make sure to obtain the correct freshwater aquarium information before you buy the fish. Do this and your fish will be smiling (oh well, swimming) soon in their new home.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rachna_Manchanda

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What Type of Fish Food is Ideal For Your Koi Fish?


Naturally, one of the major necessities of proper pet care is giving the animal a diet suitable to its needs. For breeders of Japanese Carp or Koi, the right Koi fish food means a lot more than just the survival of their collection. Feeding time is usually the only time when the owner and his pets can interact because we can't really play with fish the way we play with dogs or cats. Also, because fish have a different metabolism than our furrier friends, the feeding process is slightly more complicated than feeding a dog or cat.

Koi, like other fish, are cold-blooded. This means their body temperature rises and falls to coincide with the surrounding water. The lower the body temperature of an ectothermic (cold-blooded) animal is, the lower its metabolism. A low metabolic rate means an animal's vital systems move much slower and this includes the digestive processes. For this reason, dispensing food for your Koi isn't the same the whole year round and the food they will need will differ depending on the weather and water temperature.

Koi fish food usually comes in different-sized pellets and with different nutritional contents. This makes it easy for the owner of a Koi pond to feed his collection the right amount of food that that suits them. Somewhat akin to dog food, Koi fish food comes in different sizes because quite often, a Koi pond will have fish of different sizes. It's best to use the size of food that the smallest fish in the pond can eat. This will ensure all the Koi will have access to food (provided they're getting enough of it). Make sure also that you're giving the fish enough food to keep them from competing. Of course, the younger Koi will get left out of the buffet, boxed-out by their larger pond-mates. This will only result in under eating and eventually stress which more often than not leads to sickness and disease.

Food for Koi also come in varying percentages of protein and carbohydrates because these fish have different nutritional needs depending on the weather, as I mentioned earlier. During winter when the water turns really cold, Koi won't need that much protein. Their appetite and metabolism will be really slow during this time, so feeding them high-protein food can result in indigestion and health problems. During months of cold weather, all Koi really need are supplemental, carbohydrate-rich food once every 2-3 days.

High-protein Koi fish food (40%) is ideal for the summer months when the water is at its warmest. This is a time when Koi are ravenous and will need all the nutrition they can get from what you give them. Summertime is also a good time to feed them food rich with color-enhancers to help them bring their natural colors and highlights out faster. Once in a while you can also give your beloved fish live treats like mealworms, brine shrimp or mosquito larvae. It's a good idea to stay away from maggots though, for obvious reasons.

Douglas Cain is a koi expert. For more information on food for your Koi, visit http://www.koifishinformation.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Douglas_Cain

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Koi Breeding Basics


Like most lovers, kois need privacy to mate.

Koi privacy. A koi breeder only needs two males and a female for optimal spawning. When it's time for the female to spawn, the male koi will rub, nudge or even bash her belly to help expel the eggs. The privacy is not only to maximize spawning, it's also to preserve your excellent brood stock for several more breeding seasons.

Spawning is an exhausting, stressful experience for the female. Coping with two males as well as the other kois in the spawning fray will weaken Mama Koi. After laying her eggs, the female will usually be breathing heavily and hanging her head down.

To make sure that kois remain undisturbed, keep a dedicated spawning tank. You could either use a separate tank or put a net inside the pond. Either way, the tank must be maintained at 73 ºF (23ºC) since any change in water temperatures or conditions can deter spawning.

Life after hatching. After spawning, transfer the eggs to an incubation tank. Ideally, it should have about 100 gallons of water and made of non-toxic materials. Treat the waters with malachite green, a chemical antiseptic, to protect the eggs from fungal or bacterial infections.

Eggs hatch at 68-78 ºF (20-21 ºC). Keep the temperature in your tanks constant as extreme temperatures will affect incubation time. Low temperatures will slow down incubation and higher ones can quicken it, leading to deformities in the fry.

The eggs usually develop for 2-4 days. Once hatched, the koi fry will instinctively go hiding. Cover the tank with a net to protect them from predators.

Feeding baby koi. The newly-hatched fry don't have any swim bladder, mouth or any openings so the water must be well-aerated. They breathe by absorbing oxygen through the blood capillaries in their yolk sac; poor oxygen levels can slaughter your fry en masse.

The yolk sac will be the fry's primary food source for 2-3 days, or until it has been fed out. They can be given food once the fry start coming to the surface for air or when they're already swimming freely mid-pond.

About the third day, you can already feed the fry with food. They still don't have any taste buds so they'll look for food by sight. The ideal first day food is the yolk of a hard-boiled egg; though it lacks nutritional value, it increases fry size. The fry can also feed on brine shrimp or other planktons. In another week, they should be ready for a mash diet or small pellets.

Culling. Maintain the heat in the incubation tank at 68-78 ºF (20-21 ºC) to encourage growth. Note, though, that kois lose their characteristic colors with too much heat.

Once they are an inch or two in size, you would have to watch out for cannibalism. Migrate the larger ones to another holding tank to prevent the larger fry from feeding on the smaller ones.

In 4-6 weeks, the growing koi should be ready for culling. Culling will eliminate the mono-colored, poorer quality kois and thereby keep the integrity of your brood stock.

Jonathon Matthews is a koi expert. For a complete guide to breeding koi and general koi care information, visit http://www.koicaringsecrets.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jonathon_Matthews

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What If You Need to Move Your Koi


If your koi falls ill, chances are you have to take it to the vet. This is perhaps the most common reason why you need to move your koi. Other reasons could be due to repairs to your pond, moving house or impending bad weather. In any of these cases, it is important to move your koi in the proper way. Knowing how to properly bag and transport your Koi could mean the difference between life and death.

The good thing is that you don't need specialized knowledge or expensive equipment to move your koi. All you need are the bags, a net, a bucket and rubber bands. It is always a good idea to have all these things available at all times because just in case you need to move your koi in short notice. After all, these things are small and easily stored when not in use.

One important point is that you should not use just any plastic bag or rubbish bag to bag your koi during transport. They are usually too thin and not flexible enough. The worst thing that can happen is these flimsy bags burse open and you lose your koi. Hence, you must use the proper koi bags to transport your koi. Unless you still have the bags you brought your koi home in originally, you will have to buy some of these koi moving bags at your local pet store. Make sure you get bags of the right size to hold your Koi and check the bags for leaks.

How to Bag your Koi

The process of catching and bagging your Koi is quite easy. You start by using the net to guide your koi into the bucket. If you have a large pond, you may need some help from a friend. Once the Koi is in the bucket you can remove any excess water and begin bagging the Koi.

Now bag the koi by putting your bag over the koi from head to tail. Make sure there is enough water in the bag to completely cover the gills and leave plenty of air inside the bag. Tie the end of the bag with rubber bands until the bag is secure.

Gently lift your koi without bending it. Place the bags horizontally in a box or other container that can hold it securely. You probably need to put some other sizable objects around your bag to prevent it from moving with the bumps and

turns during transport. Lastly, shade your koi from the heat and sun as much as you can when it is being moved.

Finding the best information about proper koi keeping can be overwhelming at times.

One of the best places we have found online for the straight facts on koi keeping and where you can get a FREE 10-part mini course on 'How to Keep Koi Tips and Tricks' is Keep Koi Resources.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christopher_H._Andrews

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Setting Up a Saltwater Aquarium


Many people have the misconception that it is difficult to maintain saltwater aquariums compared to freshwater setups. But this is not true. In reality, species of saltwater fish including invertebrates are easy to maintain with just a little bit difference in requirement. You just have to know the basics to better understand how to maintain saltwater aquariums.

There are so many species of attractive saltwater fish which you can choose. the main reason why many of the hobbyists would love to setup their own marine aquarium.

In this article, we are going to provide you with some of the basic steps in setting up, maintaining and choosing the saltwater fish and invertebrates for your marine tank.

There are several ways in setting up an aquarium which all depends on your interest and chosen species of fish. Hobbyist usually tags each type of aquariums to differentiate the requirements and the type of tanks to be used.

The Fish Only Tank
Fish only tank is a type of tank used to maintain fish without plants, clams and corals. This tank may also contain invertebrates which help in keeping the tanks clean. This is one of the easiest, and is less expensive setup compared to the reef tank.

Reef Tank
Reef tank is designed for a more variety of fish which needs anemones or corals. This system needs a special setup. Reef tanks can be classified as large polyp stony (LPS), small polyp stone (SPS) and the softy tanks. All of these have different needs and are therefore set up differently.

After choosing your setup and the species of fish for your marine aquarium, you also need to know how to maintain your saltwater tanks. This is very important in order to maintain the environment of your fish.

Here are some important tips for maintaining your marine aquarium.

Ammonia and Nitrate Monitoring
Usually after six weeks, your tank will show the common cycle process. This is the most critical part of your marine aquarium. You should be very keen in observing the nitrate and ammonia content in the tank. If you notice any stress from the fish inside the aquarium, you need to change the water. If worst cases where the fish really looks bad, it is a must to relocate them into other storage to prevent intoxication. It is recommended to have enough supply of dechlorinated and salt mix for immediate water changes.

PH Monitoring
Besides careful monitoring of the nitrates and ammonia, it is also vital to monitor the pH at all times. There is a great tendency of pH dropping over a period of time. If this occurs, you need to raise it immediately. In order to do this, add one tablespoon of baking soda with one cup of dechlorinated water and pour it into the tank with at least one hour interval. Baking soda will effectively fall the pH inside the tank.

Water Monitoring
Normally, water level will diminish as time goes by and you need to replace it. This is normal due to water evaporation. So make sure you keep the water at a constant level always.

Algae Cleaning
Soon as the tank will reach its third week, the formation of algae will be noticed. These are brown algae which tend to cover up the entire area of the tank. You need to clean these algae once a week. When green algae develop, it will soon outdo the brown algae and will cause it to disappear. But in case the green algae do not surpass the brown algae, you need to employ additional light for this process to workout.

Water Change
After sometime, it is necessary to change the water at least 50% of the total water content in regular intervals. You could change water once a week. You should also clean the gravel at the same time.

For more information on Saltwater Aquarium Substrates and Salinity of Saltwater Aquarium, please visit our website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Wasim_Ahmad

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Why Should You Choose a Biorb Aquarium?


Reef-One has sold close to a million biorb aquariums since the Biorb first launched, many of which are owned by celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow & Ryan Seacrest. That is a lot of aquariums, but, is the biorb right for you? This article highlights the main reasons hundreds of thousands of people have chosen a biorb aquarium and will help you decide if a Biorb Aquarium is the perfect aquarium for you.

If you are thinking of buying an aquarium and have done your research you know that there are hundreds of different tanks, and aquarium options to choose from. Out of all of those choices, why should you choose a biorb aquarium rather than a different tank?

Biorb Highlights - Why is the Biorb Special, Here Are Just a Few Reasons

• The Biorb's stylish design has enamored thousands, including dozens of celebrities who own one. (Just a few are Gwyneth Paltrow, Ryan Seacrest, Mariah Carey, & Jessica Alba)
• Everything you need to start your Biorb Fish Tank is included, even a fish food sample
• There are over nine different biorb tanks & sizes to choose from, and several colors
• Biorb care is easy with the snap & twist biorb service kit
• Biorb Aquariums have five stages of filtration for healthy fish

Everything You Need to Start the Aquarium is Included

The Biorb comes with everything you need to get your aquarium started, besides the fish. It comes with a water dechlorinator, light, air pump, filter, airstone, fish food sample, and ceramic media.

A few things that it doesn't come with that you will want in the future are a biorb siphon hose, a fish net, and fish food.

The Biorb Aquarium Line Offers Nine Different Tanks to Choose From

Since the biorb aquariums range in size from four to sixteen gallons it means you can find an aquarium that is the right size for you. If you want to keep things simple and put a betta on your office desk, the baby biorb aquarium (4 gallons) will work great for you. If you are looking for a more extensive set up with tropical fish, or are hoping to try your hand at a saltwater aquarium, the 16 gallon biorb life, or classic biorb give you that opportunity.

The regular biorb comes in a four, eight, or 16 gallon size, the biube comes in two, 9 gallon models, and the biorb life aquariums come in 8, 12, or 16 gallon sizes.

The Biorb Lines are the Classic Biorb, Biorb Life, & Biube Aquariums

Low Maintenance

We know that this one will catch your eye, if you are shopping for a nice aquarium for your home or office, chances are you do have another life, and you don't want to spend hours at a time cleaning your aquarium. Great news, the Biorb Aquariums are a cinch to clean. The biorb filter is easily replaced with a snap and twist and the biorb has 5 stages of filtration.

You can easily maintain a healthy biorb aquarium by spending less than an hour a month. Don't be fooled though, some people will say that the biorb aquarium is completely maintenance free. Anyone who says an aquarium is maintenance free is wrong. Every aquarium, no matter how advanced requires some maintenance. Saying that an aquarium doesn't need maintenance is like saying your house doesn't ever need to be cleaned. Sure, you could get by without cleaning your house for a year...but let's face it, you would be miserable, and so will your fish if you don't clean their tank.

The Good News About Biorb Care

Maintenance is fast and easy when done regularly. Just a few minutes a week will be enough to take care of your biorb tank. The main thing you will need to do is a water change, every couple weeks you will want to siphon out and replace a portion of your water. (more often if your aquarium is getting dirty faster). After a little experience a water change can be done in only 5-10 minutes.

Things to Consider Before Buying a Biorb

Biorb aquariums are great, however, they do have limitations like any fish tank.

Do a little research before buying the fish you want. Be sure to find out how big your fish will get, and if they will outgrow your aquarium you should choose a different fish to buy, or you will have to trade it in for a smaller fish as it gets bigger. Some fish aren't suitable for the biorb aquarium, for example, some fish require more than 16 gallons of water, or require running water and lots of plants to stay healthy. If you want an extravagant aquarium setup with dozens of fish, the biorb probably isn't right for you.

Don't try to put too many fish in your biorb, fish need space, a rough rule of fish keeping is one inch of fish per gallon of water.

BIORB SUMMARY

Biorb aquariums are stylish, easy to setup & maintain, and come in lots of different shapes and sizes to fit both your budget and your aquarium needs. Before buying an aquarium determine what you want in a fish tank and the number and types of fish you want to house. If those numbers fit with a biorb fish tank, then chances are the biorb will be a great aquarium for you. The Biorb has been great for close to a million people over the last several years, is it right for you, that's for you to decide.

Biorb Life

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Eight Stressors That May Trigger Koi Disease


Unlike most other fishes, the koi's immune system is quite vulnerable due to the process of selective breeding that it has undergone through the centuries. Breeders were more concerned with enhancing its aesthetic attributes (like colors and patterns) rather than strengthening its disease-fighting abilities.

The number one disease-causing agent for most koi fish is stress. Stress renders the koi's immune system vulnerable to infections as its ability to produce antibodies is compromised during these tensed periods.

Your priority, therefore, is to control or eliminate stress on your koi. Keep in mind that extreme alterations in their environment and the existence of stressors will hurt your fish. The following are common koi stressors:

1. High ammonia levels in your pond water. Check the integrity of your biological and mechanical filtration systems, as well as the clarity and cleanliness of your pond. Ammonia causes tissue damage and stunts their growth.

2. Poor water quality. Buy a test kit and check for pH, kh, gh, nitrite, ammonia, and salinity levels in your pond water.

3. Low dissolved oxygen level. Do you have aerators installed to oxygenate the water? Water should be vigorously moving/flowing so oxygen will be distributed evenly across the pond.

4. Handling and/or moving fish. The mucous layer which covers the entire body of your koi needs to be handled with moistened hands, for example. It's the fish's first line of defense against water-borne irritants, parasites, and fungal, viral and bacterial infections. Handling the fish incorrectly will damage this protective covering, which contains antibodies and lyzosome, an enzyme that destroys the cell walls of certain bacteria.

5. Crowding. Take care that the stocking level in your pond is proportional to its carrying capacity. Too many kois and there'll be stiffer competition for food, space, and oxygen, among others.

6. Parasites, like flukes, costia, chilodinella, trichodina, and the "ich". The koi usually acquire its parasites from other fish; often, when a new fish is introduced into the pond without undergoing quarantine.

7. Sharp edges in or around the pool can abrade fish skin, eventually exposing them to both parasites and infections. Particularly with your spawning tank, ensure that the edges are rounded as the male can bruise and wound the female during mating time.

8. Inadequate or improper food. Although kois love worms, mind that you don't feed them maggots which feed on rotting flesh and thus are potential disease carriers.

Detecting stress. But how will you know if your kois are stressed?

Always observe your koi for any behavioral or physical changes. Be alert to listlessness, lethargy, lack of appetite, and aloneness. If these behaviors persist for several days and to a number of kois, you should be concerned.

Examine the fish for any bruising, abrasions, lesions, and ulcers that are forming or have been there for days or weeks. Do your inspection at feeding time, when they come to the surface. Scan the gills, fins and skin, where most parasites and infections initially crop up. If you suspect a more serious illness, scrape the surface for a sample and dispatch it to the laboratories.

Jonathon Matthews is a koi expert. For detailed information on identifying and curing koi disease visit http://www.koicaringsecrets.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jonathon_Matthews

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Start a Freshwater Fish Aquarium Then Sit Back and Be Calmed


With stress being a huge factor in our daily lives of today it's ironic that so many hobbies today which are meant to relax us actually create more stress. Starting a freshwater fish aquarium is one hobby which certainly does not come under that list. Quite the opposite in fact.

Golf tends to be relaxing but with the blokes and the girls becoming more and more competitive it is actually causing us to be stressed when the game isn't going our way. That's the case with most games today I'm afraid. When the enthusiast finishes play, he or she is feeling worse than at the beginning.

When you start a freshwater fish aquarium as a hobby things are different from the start and can continue to be so for a life time. But, I hear you say, what about setting it up and the on going maintenance? It's an absolute breeze and it is just so exciting and exhilarating.

The main point here though is that when all is set up and you're looking at your new fishy friends in their visually stunning home it truly is calming to you or anyone watching the whole set up. And that's not just my opinion. Ask anyone who owns a freshwater fish aquarium and they'll tell you the same. There's nothing quite like coming home after a hard day's work and sitting watching your aquarium to give you that soothing, calming and relaxing sensation. Absolutely true. That is part of the reason why you find fish aquariums in many schools, hospitals and business premises.

So if you're looking for a new but relaxing hobby you certainly won't go far wrong with starting a freshwater fish aquarium. Don't forget to do your research first though so that you know exactly what to do and how to do it.

Happy fishing to you.

http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

John Eddie has for some time been a keen enthusiast in freshwater fish and their aquarium. He has gathered lots of information, much of which is not readily available at your local pet shop.

For more interesting and helpful information on freshwater fish and the aquarium please visit the above site at your leisure.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_N_Eddie

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Macroalgae As Natural Filtration For Reef Aquariums


Removing excess waste is one of the main challenges to a successful reef aquarium. It's often easy for beginners to forget that corals are living animals that excrete waste. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrates and phosphates are problematic to corals, fishes, inverts and other animals. An increase in ammonia that is not quickly removed or converted can easily crash a reef aquarium. High amounts of nitrates and phosphates can hinder coral growth and cause discoloration.

Typical means of removing nitrates and phosphates involve water changes, skimmers and the use of macroalgae. All three are very effective but the use of macroalgae is the easiest and most economical. Skimmers are often expensive and require cleaning few times a week. Water changes are time consuming and can get expensive for large reef aquariums. Macroalgae can effectively absorb phosphates and nitrates as long as a light source is present. The only maintenance required is pruning excess growth once a month. While skimmers and water changes incur costs, excess trimmings of macroalgae can often be sold.

A side affect of excess nutrients is an increase of nuisance microalgae. Microalgae can ruin the beauty of a reef aquarium and suffocate corals. The good news is that macroalgae is able to able to starve microalgae of nutrients and thus greatly reducing its presence.

There is an abundance of choices of macroalgae that include Chaetomorpha, Caulerpa, Gracilaria and Ulva. In terms of phosphate and nitrate absorption, Caulerpa is the most aggressive and effective. However, Caulerpa can be potentially dangerous. Caulerpa can suddenly dissolve and release toxic elements and the excess nutrients that were absorbed. This happens when Caulerpa is lacking light or nutrients. A second problem with Caulerpa is its hold fast roots. Caulerpa has the ability to attach itself to hard objects making removal extremely difficult. With these risks it's better to choose another macroalgae.

Chaetomorpha is an excellent and likely most popular choice among reef aquarists for nutrient uptake. Although the nutrient absorption rate for Chaetomorpha is not as aggressive as Caulerpa, it doesn't pose any risks that Caulerpa does. Chaetomorpha will not dissolve suddenly when starved of nutrients or light. There will be plenty of time and signs before Chaetomorpha dissolve. Chaetomorpha also lack the ability to attach to objects making removal very easy.

Long term control of excess nutrients is essential for a successful and beautiful reef aquarium. Although skimmers and frequent water changes are extremely effective in removing excess nutrients, macroalgae is the easiest way to remove excess nutrients.

For a wide selection of macroalgae and live corals visit:

http://www.lareefs.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Matian

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Koi Filters and Pumps - Your Koi's Life Support System


Your koi needs an environment that is clean and healthy for them to grow to their maximum potential. If you think that having a few water plants and a waterfall in your pond is enough, you are greatly mistaken.

You also need pond filters. Without proper filtration, your koi pond starts to turn green and becomes a breeding ground for parasites and bacteria which may eventually kill your koi.

There are essentially two types of koi pond filters. Firstly, the mechanical filter. This type of filter is to remove solid matter and debris from your koi pond such as fallen leaves, sand, dead algae and insects, koi waste etc. The type of mechanical filter I'd recommend is the type that employs a vortex system. This typically consists of a conical chamber that draws solid waste into its funnel where it is drained away into a settlement chamber at the bottom for removal. Be sure, however to choose a vortex system of an appropriate size for your pond.

The second type of filter is the biological filter. This removes dangerous toxic chemicals from the water, primarily nitrites and ammonia compounds. The ammonia comes about due to the koi's urine while other nitrogen compounds are the result of the activity of anaerobic bacteria that converts ammonia to other compounds such as nitrites, which are also toxic to your koi. If you notice a blue tinge at the top of the eyes of your koi, it indicates that your nitrite levels are too high. When these dangerous chemical compounds build up in your pond, it will kill your koi in a matter of days.

The most efficient method of biological filtration today is the Trickle Tower filter. Pond water is released from the top onto layers of perforated biological filter mediums. Good examples of such biological filter mediums are Japanese matting and Honeycomb matting. When your pond water is released onto these matting, nitrogen bonding bacteria will form in abundance and they remove ammonia and nitrites from the water. That's how these toxic chemicals are removed.

The final equipment that is absolutely necessary for your koi pond is an air pump. The function of the air pump is primarily to aerate your pond water. It would be a nice thing to have a pump-generated waterfall or fountain in your pond. This not only aerates the water but adds to the overall aesthetics of your pond as well. If you are not keen on a waterfall or fountain, you can use airstones and rings for aeration as an alternative.

These are the must-have equipment for you to maximize the growth and health potential of your koi.

Finding the best information about proper koi keeping and koi ponds can be overwhelming at times. One of the best places we found online for the straight facts on koi keeping and where you can get a FREE 10-part mini course on 'How to Keep Koi Tips and Tricks' is KeepKoi Resources. To find out more about which filters you need to use, go to Koi Pond Filters.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christopher_H._Andrews

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Basic Starter Equipment For the Newbie Aquarium Enthusiast


Watching fish swimming peacefully in fish tanks is a fascinating hobby and one that can be started easily even if you've never set up an aquarium before. It can be overwhelming for a beginner, though, since there are so many choices you need to make - what type and size of aquarium to buy, how you'll maintain it, what kinds of fish to keep in it, and even where to put it.

The first thing you'll need to decide is what type of fish tank you want. They come in different types of materials such as glass or acrylic. An acrylic tank is usually seamless and will be lighter and more durable than a glass fish tank. Aquariums come in all shapes and sizes, from 5 gallons all the way up to custom tanks of 200 gallons or more. It's important to buy the largest tank you can afford, since the larger the tank the more stable the water quality will be.

Another important consideration when setting up your first fish tank is exactly where you'll put it. Water is very heavy, weighing approximately 10 pounds per gallon, so you need to plan on whether to set it on an existing piece of furniture or purchase a separate aquarium stand. Just make sure that whatever it's setting on can support the weight of the full tank and that it's level.

There are other basic equipment requirements for your new fish tank. You'll need some sort of filtration system to filter out harmful materials and aerate the water. The most common type of aquarium filter is the power filter. This type is popular as it's efficient and easy to maintain. They work well for most aquariums, as some of them combine chemical, biological, and mechanical filtration, making them most effective. Other types of filters include the undergravel filter, sponge filter and canister filter. Each one is suited for different types of fish tanks.

A water heater is another basic piece of equipment you'll need, especially if you're going to have tropical fish. Most heaters come with a thermostat, which is important to keep your water temperature within the range you set. Make sure any heater you buy is UL approved and made specifically for fish tanks.

Lighting is necessary for your fish and any plants you may have in your aquarium, but remember that lighting also adds beauty to your aquarium. The type and wattage of bulbs that you use will depend on whether or not you have live plants growing in your fish tank. If you do, then you'll need between 2 and 5 watts of light for every gallon of water. You'll also need to take into account the species of plants in your tank and how quickly they grow. If you purchase an aquarium starter kit, it will most likely come with basic lighting, which means regular fluorescent bulbs. These are fine for a basic fish tank. Aquariums without plants only usually need between 6 - 12 hours of light, while tanks with live plants need anywhere from 10 - 12 hours for optimum plant growth.

The basic aquarium equipment here is all you need to get started with your new hobby. Fish tanks for sale can be found at any local pet store and there are many online stores devoted solely to the fascinating world of fish-keeping.

It is important when buying fish tanks online that you have a good look around. One site of particular notice that has good quality fish tanks for sale is a site called "First Class Aquariums", if you type their name into Google or click on the above links you will be able to take a look at what they have to offer. Enjoy!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_Cooney

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Tropical Fish Guide For Those Who Are New to Tropical Fish


So you're ready to discover the very exciting and rewarding world of owning tropical fish? You have made an excellent choice! Exotic pet ownership is fun and challenging. You have a lot of responsibilities at the beginning but once you've learned about how to care of your tropical fish, you'll be good to go. This beginner's tropical fish guide should help make things a bit easier as you prepare for your new pets.

The first thing you need to do is figure out what you have room for and what you're prepared to take care of. Knowing how big of a tank to buy can be tricky. The people at your local exotic pet and tropical fish store can be a huge help to you. Typically the best size for new tropical fish owners is anywhere from 10 to 20 gallons. You can manage this size easily and once you've got good experience handling this size tank, you can move up to a larger tank.

Many pet stores these days sell tank kits. They can be useful when you aren't very familiar with what fish need to live and what they like. However, be careful that you don't buy a kit that is cheaply made. It's going to be a little bit expensive when you first start this venture. Don't go the cheap route; you could end up putting your fish in jeopardy. Cheap parts can fall off and kill your pets.

You need to buy a solid tank with a lid and a stand that will hold your fish tank. You also will need to buy a light and a filter for your fish tank. Before you do anything, clean your fish tank with warm water. If you use any sort of soap or detergent, it is imperative that you rinse your tank thoroughly. You don't want to poison your fish!

Make sure that your tank is completely clean and then add about an inch of rocks to the bottom of the tank. There is a variety of colored and ornate gravel that you can purchase for your tank. Get creative and give your new pets a beautiful home to enjoy. Begin adding water and set your tank heater to approximately 80 degrees. This is the ideal temperature for most tropical fish. Be sure and check with the pet store before putting your fish in their new home.

Tropical fish should not be kept near windows or other bright, natural light sources. The light helps produce algae that can dirty your tank and kill your fish. A 5 watt light should keep your fish happy and under the right lighting. Once your tank is full and at the correct temperature, you are ready to go pick out your fish.

Since you're new to this, ask the pet store owner to show you the lower maintenance fish they have to offer. Select a few of several kinds of fish that will be both bright and fascinating to watch and also easy to care for. Some fish, contrary to popular belief, do not get along well. They may not warn you at the pet shop, but some fish are highly predatory. Read up on the kinds of fish that you shouldn't mix together before buying your new pets.

Make sure that you are feeding your fish the right food. It's important to do this unless you want to make your fish sick or possibly kill them. Feed your fish the right amount of food and feed them at the same time, every day. Don't overfeed fish, they can actually eat themselves to death! Keep your tank clean and keep a close eye on your new housemates, especially for the first few days after you bring them home.

If you want to look at a tropical fish guide and get some FREE information about tropical fish, then please click here: tropical fish guide

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Harold_Peterson

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The Art and Science of Breeding Koi Fish


For fish hobbyists, collecting and raising tropical fish is a source of fun and relaxation. Just being able to watch them swim in their artificial habitat is the perfect stress reliever after a long day's work. The same goes for Koi enthusiasts' and their garden ponds. Watching these colorful fish swim gracefully while enjoying the outdoor air can make for a wonderful recreational activity. For some collectors that want to take things to a totally different level, breeding Koi is the ultimate hobby; it is exciting and can generate income at the same time.

It takes a lot of patience and effort on the part of the owner to breed Koi. Selecting the breeding partners and preparing everything for spawning takes a bit of time, as well. The metabolism and appetites of Koi are at their highest during the summer months, so this is the ideal time to have them mate.

What color combination and pattern you want your baby Koi to have will determine your choice of breeding partners. Different combinations of parents produce different offspring, so it's necessary to do extensive research and planning. Consult Koi experts you may know, surf the web and read material on the subject. You'd only be wasting your time and money if the offspring that results from the breeding aren't to your liking.

Once you've decided what variety of Koi you want to breed, it's time to pick-out the healthy breeding partners. It's a good idea to put two males with a single female that's ready to spawn. This ensures that the most number of eggs are fertilized. Males that are ready to spawn (3-5 years old) will develop small bumps on their pectoral fins and foreheads; they use these to "tickle" the females into spawning. Female Koi will be ready for spawning when they're between 4-6 years of age.

Proper preparation of the spawning area will be a big factor in successful breeding. You should separate the mating trio from the rest of the fish and make sure about the quality of the water- ph levels, oxygen concentration and so forth. There also should be something in the water onto which the female can lay her eggs. Underwater plants or submerged twigs will work. The fry will also need a place to hide in when they hatch, so keep this in mind when choosing your medium.

Last but not least, it's necessary to isolate the fertilized eggs from the parents to avoid cannibalism. It's not unusual for Koi and other fish to feed on their own young. Yolks from hard-boiled eggs and brine shrimp are a good starter food for Koi. Again, make sure there's ample oxygen in the water and that the ph levels are where they should be to ensure your success in breeding Koi.

Douglas Cain is an expert on breeding Koi. For more information on breeding koi, visit http://www.koifishinformation.com.

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Learn to Identify and Prevent Common Koi Diseases and Illnesses


All animals have a built-in immune system that acts as protection from viruses and bacteria that cause sickness. Generally, this is good enough in warding-off disease, but when stress levels are high, this natural defense system can fail. This goes the same for Koi fish and disease is usually a result of too much stress caused by poor quality water, not enough food or drastic changes in water temperature.

The common carp is known to be one of the hardiest species of fish, and this trait trickled down to the modern Koi. However, in their quest to bring out the most beautiful colors and patterns in Koi, breeders didn't bother to develop their immune systems and as a result, Koi can be sensitive to abrupt changes in temperature and water quality.

Koi can be stressed by high ammonia content in the pond water, the wrong ph level, lack of oxygen and not enough food. When these fish undergo continuous stress, they can succumb to parasites, fungus and bacteria that might be lurking in the water. Although most diseases caused by these things can be treated using salt, kanamycin and other medicinal treatments, it's best to avoid this and concentrate on prevention.

Flukes, trichodina and similar parasites are one of the major threats to the health of Koi. Considering you keep your pond water pristine and keep close watch on the health of your collection, the only way parasites can afflict your fish is by introducing new Koi into the pond. No matter how reputable the source of your new Koi is, it's impossible to be 100% sure that they're parasite-free. For this reason, new fish should undergo a proper quarantine process. They should be kept in a quarantine tank prior to introduction into your pond. The ideal quarantine period is at least 21 days and this also gives your new Koi time to recuperate from the stresses of being packed in a box and transported for several hours.

Choosing a healthy fish from your pond and placing it in the quarantine tank with your new Koi will help it recover faster because these fish are used to being with other members of their species. This will also give you the chance to watch out for any differences in the behavior of your new fish with the healthy one from your Koi. Usually, a sick Koi will sulk and tend to stay in one area of the pond or tank.

Koi disease can be spotted easily by watching your fish closely as they swim about. If they exhibit abnormal behavior such as scraping their sides against rocks or the pond wall, staying near the surface or aerators gasping for air, or swimming in an awkward position, this is a sure sign they have succumbed to parasites or fungal and viral diseases. There are several treatments available for sick Koi, but again, nothing beats prevention. Having test kits in stock to check ph levels, ammonia concentration and oxygen amount can go a long way in keeping your fish stress-free, happy and healthy in their home.

Douglas Cain is a koi expert. For more information on koi diseases, visit http://www.koifishinformation.com

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Cichlids - Proper Care of Your Convict Cichlids


Keeping cichlids is an exciting hobby. For beginners, it is great to start off by keeping convict cichlid fishes and taking care of them is relatively easy. Convict cichlid fish is very easy to keep and breed in the aquarium. The Convict cichlid(Amatitlania nigrofasciata) is a type of fish from the family-Cichlidae, native to Central America. These popular aquarium cichlids are also known as the zebra cichlid.

Convict cichlid fish is a hardy species that can easily adapt to almost any water conditions which made them easy to maintain and breed in aquariums. The aquarium for Convict cichlids should be decorated with a few flat stones and rocks and artificial caves for breeding. Plants are not necessary because of most of the plants will be destroyed by the cichlids. However, if you really want to put some plants, it is better to put some hardier plants such as Amazonian swords plant and java fern to withstand their aggression. Using these plants, it can help to beautify the aquarium and make the cichlids feel more at home. In fact, as long as you avoid putting harmful toxic objects in your aquarium decoration, your fish will make themselves at home.

They accept a very wide temperature range and pH level range as long as it keep relatively stable but is best kept in 20-28C/ 68-82F and pH 6-8. Convict cichlids are unfussy omnivore and eat most types of prepare fish foods such as flake food and pellets. They also eat aquarium plants. By nature, Convict cichlids are aggressive towards other fish. This is more obvious during their breeding period. It is best to keep Convict cichlids in a separate tank for breeding.

In fact, Convict cichlids are one of the easiest fish in the world to breed. They can start spawning as young as 16 weeks of age. It is common to find a pair of Convict cichlids under a flat stone which the male Convict cichlid could have dug a cave under it earlier and they breed there.

Both cichlids parents will guard both the eggs and the fry. As good and protective parents, they can become very aggressive towards other fish that enters their breeding territory. The fry can be feed crushed flake food and newly hatched brine shrimp.

Because of its relativity small size along with ease for keeping and breeding, Convict cichlid fish is a great cichlid for beginners and aquarists who are interested in observing paid bonding and brood care.

In conclusion, keeping and breeding cichlids is a very satisfying and challenging hobby. Thus, it is very important that you know the secrets of taking care of your cichlids. To learn more about how to take real good care of these cichlids, get more information at http://www.cichlidsecrets.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Taylor_Fox

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How to Breed African Cichlids


Many aquarists like you enjoy keeping cichlids in their fish tank because of their different shapes and vibrant colors. Before long, just having them in their aquarium is not enough, fish lovers want to breed cichlids on their own. In fact, cichlid breeding is an interesting process to watch because of their parental behavior and highly organized breeding activities. Cichlid breeding parental brood care falls into one of three categories: open brooding, cave brooding, and mouthbrooding.

Most African Cichlids are mouthbrooders. In other words, the female African Cichlid will hold the eggs in their mouth. First, you need to get your breeding colony. Often, when a female cichlid is ready to mate, all the male cichlids will turn very aggressive and will often fight over her. Or, if you have only a pair, the male may be too aggressive towards the one available female, resulting in stress and potential death. Instead, you may want to keep 3 females for every male in your cichlid tank. This will keep the males busy chasing multiple females and let the females a chance to recover from being chased when breeding.

The African Cichlids breeding colony will love to have a good environment with plenty of caves, rocks, shelves and crevices which they can choose as their territory and breeding ground. Don't bother to put any aquarium plants as they will be removed by the cichlids. It is equally important to feed your African Cichlids well to get them into their breeding condition. Spirulina flakes and occasional earthworm are excellent quality food for your African Cichlids.

When breeding time comes, the male will chase after the female and it will do a mating dance which consists of shimmying in front of the female. The female will lay eggs and then pick them up in their mouth. The male will fertilize the eggs. This whole process is repeated many times until the female loses interest and the male will chase another breeding female and repeat the whole process again.

Those unfertilized eggs will be disposed of. The female cichlid will keep the fertilized eggs in her mouth until they are hatched. This process can take about three to five weeks.

To keep the baby African Cichlids alive, it is important to transfer the female to a smaller tank before the baby cichlids are born. If not, the adult cichlids will eat them. When babies are born, move the babies to a fry tank before the mother cichlid eats them.

For the baby cichlids, you can feed them with some fine powder form of flake food. Meantime, it is good to let the female cichlid recover its health before putting her back in the tank. Also, try to keep the babies with cichlids of the same size, lest they become food!

In conclusion, keeping and breeding cichlids is a very satisfying and challenging hobby. Thus, it is very important that you know the secrets of taking care of your cichlids. To learn more about how to take real good care of these cichlids, get more information at http://www.cichlidsecrets.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Taylor_Fox

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How to Keep Nitrates Low in a Saltwater Aquarium


The ultimate quest for the Marine Reef Keeper is keeping water parameters as close to natural sea water as possible. One of the main concerns for hobbyist is keeping Nitrates to a minimum, if not totally eradicating them.

You need to have a reasonable understanding of the nitrate cycle, here is a quick guide.

Fish produce waste very similar to us, this contains ammonia. Ammonia is then converted to nitrite by a bacteria known as Nitrosomonas. The Nitrite is then converted into nitrate by another bacteria called Nitrobacter. The final piece of the cycle where the nitrates are consumed by plants and algae and of cause your regular water changes.

* The first and most important thing is regular small water changes. As a guide about 10% change weekly in a aquarium with a high biological load, highly stocked aquarium or high nitrates in the first place. If your aquarium as a small bio load and low nitrates it is recommended to do a 25% change every month to help replace depleted trace elements. This really is common knowledge and should be part of your reef keeping maintenance.
* Using the correct amount of live rock is important as this is your natural filtration, and to go with this you need a good amount of flow so that your live rock and it's small filtering inhabitants can filter and work there de-nitrifying effects on your water. Flow should be a minimum of 24 times turn over off the total volume of your aquarium, bear this in mind though when positioning low flow loving corals.
* Using the correct amount of sand, many argue too much will create what is known as a "nitrate factory" A Deep sand bed can cause problems if not full of de-nitrifying bacteria, this can take time to mature, it is recommended not to use sand, using a light misting, enough to cover the surface for aesthetic pleasure.
* I find that if using sand at any depth, to not disturb it. Using a Siphon and vacuuming the substrate in my opinion shouldn't be done. This removes the de-nitrifying bacteria and releases nitrates. After employing this method, i have found reduced levels of nitrates.
* Stocking correctly and slowly, By over stocking you are asking for trouble, i suppose you can keep on top with very regular water changes but what is the point could you live in a 3 by 2 cubicle? Taking it slowly is not only easier on the pocket it also allows the de-nitrifying bacteria time to cope with the biological load. Like a good wine, it matures with time.
* Over feeding can contribute to high nitrates especially on newly set up aquariums. If the food is not getting consumed then there will be a bigger biological load on the aquarium.

If you follow this guide you should soon find your problem will rectify itself and stay that way as long as these steps are followed.

For more Guides articles and advice visit http://myreefblog.blogspot.com
For everything you need to know about Reef Keeping Download this great E-book http://myreefblog.blogspot.com/2008/09/saltwater-aquarium-advice.html

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Understanding Evaporation and Top Up in a Saltwater Reef Aquarium


Many new Reef Keepers get confused and stuck when it comes to topping up water in their Reef Aquarium. It is really simple and easy to understand. It doesn't need to get confusing.

Evaporation happens continuously, many new hobbyists start by adding Freshly mixed saltwater then end up with a really high salinity. You have to think of your water as two elements, in fact it is. Salt and Reverse osmosis water. Salt cannot evaporate because it is a solid and solids don't evaporate. Therefore as the water evaporates, the salt remains in the Aquarium, which in turn increases your salinity. From this you should have worked out that Top up/RO water should be added.

If your Aquarium is left for a few days or more the salinity will rise rapidly, which is why it is important to top up daily if possible.

When carrying out a water change, because you are removing the mixed salt water your are removing both elements, salt and RO water. All that is required now is a fresh saltwater mix that has the correct salinity of about 1.025.

Hopefully this as helped you grasp this simple regime. This can now be taken a little further. Maybe your salinity is high or low, this again can be adjusted in just a simple method.

If it is high, just remove a few liters of saltwater and add some fresh RO water.

If it is low, just add the correct salinity water to the aquarium instead of RO water, Only a few liters at a time though then check Salinity until desired is reached.

For more articles and information visit my Blog - http://myreefblog.blogspot.com.
For saltwater Aquarium advice Download this Great eBook http://myreefblog.blogspot.com/2008/09/saltwater-aquarium-advice.html

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Aquarium Water Testing Kits - What Do You Need


There are two answers to that question, the first covers what you need when you first set up an aquarium and the second covers what to so once the tank is set up.

Whether it is a new or established tank what you are trying to do is maintain the water quality at a level which is best for your fish so the first thing to do is understand the sort of conditions that your chosen fish prefer. All fish will live happiest between certain water parameters and this varies with each type of fish.

In a new tank you need to be able to identify when the nitrogen cycle has taken effect, in other words when your tank has cycled and it is safe to start adding fish.. The biological filter is not yet established so any fish waste or undigested food would simply lead to an Ammonia Spike. This is the first stage of the Nitrogen Cycle and can be easily detected with an Ammonia Test.

As bacteria start to breed you will see the Ammonia Spike replaced by a nitrite spike as the Ammonia is converted to nitrite by the first set of friendly bacteria, Nitrosomonas. This is stage two of the Nitrogen Cycle and can be tested for with a nitrite test

As the tank finishes its cycle you will see the Nitrite spike replaced by a Nitrate spike as the Nitrospira bacteria start to breed and feed on the nitrites converting them to less harmful Nitrates. This is the third and final stage of the Nitrogen Cycle which will show up through a Nitrate Test.

Both Ammonia and Nitrite are harmful to fish so it is only when nitrite levels have fallen back to their original levels that it is safe to start adding fish

Make sure that you add the fish slowly, a few at a time, allowing the nitrogen cycle to catch up each time. Test the water every couple of days while you are adding fish and carry out a partial water change (up to 30%) if there is an Ammonia or Nitrite spike.

This cycling process can take several weeks and you cannot tell which stage you are at without testing the water. It is essential to test the water quality of your freshwater fish tank throughout the nitrogen cycle.

So the three test kits that you definitely need simply to monitor the nitrogen cycle are Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. The fourth that you need is pH to test the acidity of the tank.

Whenever you are introducing fish you need to make sure that there isn't too big a difference between the pH level in your tank and the pH level of the tank that they came from. If there is, you need to acclimatise the fish carefully to avoid shock and stress.

Once your tank has matured, the testing slows down. You still need to test your water regularly and make a note of the results so that you are aware of any changes before they have the chance to turn into problems. Make it part of your routine to test the water before you carry out your regular water changes, and definitely if your fish are acting differently.

One of the biggest problems in a mature tank is nitrate. Yes, it's far less dangerous than ammonia and nitrite, but the trouble with nitrate is that it often begins to rise over time. Your planting and regular water changes will go a long way towards dealing with nitrate but it is still worth monitoring on a monthly basis.

Nick North is a keen freshwater aquarium enthusiast and spends a great deal of his time writing articles to promote the hobby to anyone interested in taking it up as a pastime. He has now got his own website aimed at the new aquarium enthusiast which gives lots of useful information on starting your first freshwater aquarium. If you found this article useful check out the site at: http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

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Betta Fish Care the Simple Way


Fish care couldn't be simpler really; they are quite a small fish only growing between 2 to 5 inches in length in their entire lives, and they are quite easy to maintain and keep healthy as long as you follow the tips and advice available to you. It is important to start off with a good environment for them including silk or real plants (plastic plants can damage and rip the Betta's fins) and have ornaments for the fish to rest upon. You should also feed your Betta fish once a day, or once every other day and make sure that they have a varied and healthy diet which can include; flakes, pellets, fresh and freeze dried food. You should try your Betta on a little bit of everything to see which type of food suits him best.

Here are some tips to help with your Betta fish care.

1- Remember that Bettas have a back up breathing system which means that they can breathe surface air although they still need a filtration system for their tanks and it is important to bear in mind that the long finned Betta's do the best with as little current as is possible.

2- Betta's can actually learn to recognize their owners and you can even teach them games that they will remember. Make sure that you keep your fish company and say hello to him every once in a while so that he is able to learn who you are. Bettas will recognize people but mainly because they will associate you with feeding time!

3- When maintaining fish care, you should always treat your Betta with a proper medication if it gets sick. This might be an antibiotic or an antifungal treatment and you can get these easily at your local fish store, but most will be ordered so you should always be prepared in advance.

Betta fish need lots of care and attention so it is important that you do not neglect them, just because they are fish does not mean that they need less attention that, say a dog. True, you cannot walk a fish, but they do make great company and pets as long as you maintain your Betta fish care and make sure that you are well prepared for anything. For more information on the care of Betta fish, visit your local fish store or log onto the internet.

The author has created a review site that provides you with the most in-depth and complete analysis of the best betta fish care guide called Caring for Betta Fish.

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Discus Fish Secrets - Colors and Varieties


There are many fish secrets to be discovered, but many people do not know just how many different colors and types that there are of discus fish. When it comes to fish secrets, here you can learn all of the colors of the discus fish and how each will never be the same as another.
Color varieties

1 The most common of fish are the brown varieties which can be seen mostly in the wild. They have a brown color for their base, and a secondary color which is barely visible.
2 Blue or green discus fish are the next most common variety but they tend to have a bit more of a second color which is either blue or green.

3 The next color variety of the fish is the royal blue variety. This discus has a second color which creates stripes across the whole of the body and has a gold color for the base. These varieties of the discus fish are the most popular and are responsible for becoming a popular fish to keep. They are easy to tell apart from bred color discus fish because they have even less of a base color, with the golden color becoming brighter around the area of the breast.

4 The red spotted green discus is very rare in the wild and tends to be only bred in captivity and has a red color for its base with a green second color with holes in it which forms the spots.

5 The last color variety of the discus is the heckle which is actually a different species of discus all together and they can be identified by the three black bars running down their bodies which are a lot thicker that other fish.

Another fish secret is that there are only two discus varieties which are the red turquoise which had a reddish base color and has green stripes with black bars. It is also possible to get a leopard discus of this variety which is when the red stripes appear as spots instead. The second discus variety is the blue diamond which is called solid cobalt when the black bars on the body have been removed through breeding and it in turn gives the discus a brighter color and less bars which is the case of most solid discus fish.

The author has created a review site that provides you with the most In-Depth and Complete analysis of the best discus fish secrets guide called interestingly Discus Fish Secrets.

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Tropical Fish Keeping


If you have been thinking about tropical fish keeping as a hobby, then my simple advice is stop thinking and start keeping them. There is a huge range of fish that you are able to keep successfully with a little effort. If you are new to the idea then I would seriously suggest starting with freshwater fish keeping.

There is a lot to learn when you first start keeping fish and the simpler you can keep the process to start off with the better. Keeping salt water fish simply adds another ingredient to the mix. Salt effects water quality in its own unique way and it is far easier to start with freshwater fish.

Don't worry about knowing everything. If you do you will simply spend the next few years reading books and websites and never actually get round to starting your first aquarium, and that would be a shame because this is an extremely rewarding and relaxing hobby. Take ten or fifteen minutes every day to watch your fish and you will suddenly find yourself slowing down and relaxing more. In this day and age, that is probably not a bad thing.

Fish are relatively easy to keep with a little knowledge and practice. Most fish can adjust to a fairly wide range of water conditions without them experiencing any problems. What you need to do is make sure that you are mixing fish that enjoy the same water qualities in terms of pH, temperature and water hardness and then make sure that your water quality remains within the parameters that suit your fish.

When you first start our try to stick to the easier fish. These will be able to cope with a wider range of water conditions so are far more forgiving of beginner's mistakes. They also tend to be cheaper than other fish and are still very attractive coming in a wide variety of shapes and colours.

I would also recommend starting out with a planted tank Plants in your tank go a long way towards helping to maintain water quality because they use the nitrates in the water. Nitrates are always present in aquariums for the simple reason that fish waste is converted into nitrates through the nitrogen cycle. By using the nitrates as they grow, plants reduce nitrate levels and help to keep your tank free of algae and safer for the fish.

What you will soon discover is that tropical fish keeping is more about water keeping than anything else. If you can master the art of water keeping you will have mastered the art of tropical fish keeping and can quickly move on to the more exotic species that demand better water management and a much narrower range of water parameters

Nick North is a keen freshwater aquarium enthusiast and spends a great deal of his time writing articles to promote the hobby to anyone interested in taking it up as a pastime. He has now got his own website aimed at the new aquarium enthusiast which gives lots of useful information on starting your first freshwater aquarium. If you found this article useful check out the site at:

http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

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The Cost of Starting a Freshwater Fish Aquarium


It's possible that just about every hobby out there includes some kind of cost or finance, and of course if it's a hobby then we tend not to worry too much about that cost. But strictly speaking, cost shouldn't be ignored or overlooked. The cost of starting up a freshwater fish aquarium is not as much as you might first expect.

It has been stated time and time again that owning a freshwater fish aquarium is just so rewarding and interesting and that certainly is the case without doubt. Though the cost involved is not very high, it is a relevant factor and so outlined here are the main costs which are as accurate as possible at the time of writing.

If you have researched the area of starting a freshwater fish aquarium you will have noted that most folk advise starting with a 20 to 35 gallon aquarium tank. These tanks cost between £80 to £120 or $120 to $180 and this will be your biggest expense by far. If you want to go the whole hog and buy an aquarium stand these are around £30 to £60 or $50 to $90 but you can really do without this to start in my opinion especially if your funds are quite low, and lots of people use an ordinary but good looking table these days anyway.

The remaining costs are the smaller ones. Fish of course will vary according to what you buy but you may be paying to start, anything from £20 up to £50 or $30 up to $75, it really does obviously depend on your choice of fish.

Other expenses are relatively smaller such as lights costing around £10 or $16 per year, substrate will cost around £5 to £10 or $8 to $16. All your other costs will be similar or even smaller. Your total cost should not be more than £200 or $300 to start and no more than £300 or $450 if your just a little bit flashy.

So you can see that the cost of starting up a freshwater aquarium is really quite low especially for a hobby which will give you a life time of reward and interest. So, don't be shy. Shop around for the best bargains and start the hobby today.

http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

John Eddie has for some time been a keen enthusiast in freshwater fish and their aquarium. He has gathered lots of information, much of which is not readily available at your local pet shop.
For more interesting and helpful information on freshwater fish and the aquarium please visit the above site at your leisure.

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Springtime is Not a Good Time to Perform a Water Change


Be careful when you do a water change in the springtime. The birds finally have returned to begin their spring and summer routines, the grass and early spring flowers have started to show themselves as the heavy winter coat of snow and ice melts away. The sudden impulse to do some spring cleaning can direct one to decide to clean the aquarium thoroughly . Proper aquarium maintenance should be a priority for the aquarist, or should be. Especially for the novice aquarist who needs to develop proper habits for long-term success. Often the aquarium that was started in the dead of winter when the set was given during the Christmas holidays starts to show that it needs some attention. Its time to do a gravel cleaning and work on the substrate to remove built up debris and wastes

Sometimes changing water can be more trouble for the fish than leaving the water in the tank for a more extended period! I am not suggesting skipping all maintenance, filter materials should continue to be replaced and cleaned on a regular schedule, and the glass may be taking on a bit of a film that can be removed, but the removal and replacement of water....even that lost for evaporation should be carefully considered.

In this part of the year, skipping a standard water change may be the best gift you can offer the fish.

The warming days of early spring offer a period where the snows, at least here in Canada and northern North America, begin to melt. Couple that natural defrost with the often rainy and miserable weather of early spring. The rains also help the snow to hurry on its way. The rivers and lakes rapidly begin to reach their annual maximum capacities, sometimes so much so that they overflow their banks. Since we are still inexorably trapped in the age of inefficient internal combustion engines and dirty smokestacks spewing smoke and other compounds into the air all winter, the snow that is actually melting and running into these rivers and reservoirs is far from pure. All those car and truck exhausts, as well as an abundance of wild animal wastes and other dead or decayed materials trapped in the heavy snows of winter flow into the water reservoirs along with the melting ice and snow.

Springtime run-off brings with it many unexpected contaminants which can cause more harm to the fish than simply letting the water removal and replacement chore lag. Until the weather is much nicer and the floods and churning spring rains have given way to drier weather where the reservoirs are left to settle and debris fall to the bottom again, I often advise not using the municipal water from the tap for the fish tank. Although distilled water is not recommended as the sole source of water for an aquarium, an occasional water change, especially in the dangerous months of early spring, is a much safer option. Let the aquarium and its inhabitants wait an extra moth until the water is once again safer.

I prefer to refrain from doing any water changes (or even replacing evaporated water) with municipal tap water from the time that the first thawing occurs until at least a week after all the snow has gone and the weather has been sunny and dry. Heavy rains, no matter the actual season will drive lots of impurities into the municipal water supply, and the water company often compensates for them with added chemicals to ensure the water is within the listed parameters for safe drinking water. Nitrite and Nitrate often rises to high levels, as far as the fish are concerned, in many cases spring water changes actually raise the concentrations of both compounds since the aquarium had a lower concentration than the tap water is carrying.

Often the water company is simply overwhelmed by the sudden increase of organic and inorganic compounds washed into the water supply. They can only add extreme amounts of chlorine or chloramine to compensate for any bacterial blooms from the water supply. Their priority is not to make safe water for fish. They are mandated with keeping the water from the tap safe for human consumption, this is often mutually exclusive, especially in the spring.

By no means should regular maintenance be suspended during this time, if water must be replaced for the losses due to evaporation, consider adding a bit of distilled water to raise the level. I don't suggest this for every time water must be removed, this can get quite expensive, but it also does not do the fish much good either. Standard aquarium water, as well as municipal tap water contains quite a variety of compounds in it, many are required by the fish to keep their osmotic pressures properly balanced over time. Distilled water is pure water, with as few impurities as possible. Over time valuable trace elements would be lost if all that was used was distilled water.

The other cleaning chores should be kept on schedule, cleaning the glass and removing and replacing the filter media and maintaining the filter should not be interrupted. Rinsing the filter in used aquarium water can be a problem, a small bit of distilled water to remove dirt and debris from foam and re-usable media is one solution, a second would be to remove a small amount of aquarium water for the purpose, and then replacing that with the pure bottled water.

When the snow has fully melted away in the warming sun and we are in the longer days of maturing springtime, and there hasn't been a strong and soaking rainfall for a week, then it might be safe to use the water from the tap once again. If at all possible, test the tap water for nitrite, you need to ensure that the water you are replacing in the tank is better than the water you are removing. The most important concept of the standard bi-weekly water change is that you are using the new water to dilute harmful chemicals like nitrate. This prevents nitrate concentrations from building and controls the process by removing high levels in the used water and replacing with very low levels from the tap. This simply is rarely the case with the water from your tap during early and middle springtime, at least in ares where Spring run-off is a natural and normal occurrence.

Steve Pond

Having kept and bred many different types of tropical fish for the past forty years, I am dedicated to providing information required for the novice aquarist to become successful in this fascinating hobby. Keep tropical fish alive and thriving in your first aquarium through the critical first six week and beyond. Visit my blog website (http://www.noviceaquarist.com) for more detailed information specifically tailored for the novice aquarist on all aspects of the beginning aquarium. Besides my own personal contributions, a variety of other sources are polled and added regularly to the content warehouse available there.

If you want to meet and interact with others who are interested in all aspects of tropical fish keeping, join the growing social website devoted to tropical fish, http://www.tropicalfishaquarist.com where you can get help from other members in a variety of popular forum topics. Don't be shy, contribute your questions and expertise with others interested in the same goal, the enjoyment and relaxation provided by keeping your own underwater world.

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